Wine: Santadi: Carignano del Sulcis Rosato

Sardinia

It is hard not to note the similarities between the historical events of Sicily and Sardinia. Like her larger counterpart to the south, Sardinia has been invaded by everyone from the Phoenicians, who introduced winemaking to the islands, to the many rulers of Spain. To this day, the language of Sardinia reflects many Spanish influences not found elsewhere in Italy. In fact, the white grape Vermentino and the red varieties Cannonau and Carignano are thought to have been introduced during the Spanish occupation during the Middle Ages. (Going even further back, the variety Nuragus is believed to have been planted by the Phoenicians). Beyond the numerous invasions, both regions enjoy significant natural conditions for viticulture- intense daytime sunlight, and cooling maritime breezes. Both have diverse microclimates and both a history of cooperative wine production. But Sardinia has the least Italian feel, retaining an identity that is fiercely independent of the mainland. It is more rustic and rugged, with 85% of the land covered by mountains and rocks smoothed over by intense winds. The winds from Africa, known as Scirocco, are so intense that many vines have been allowed to grow in the untrained, low to the ground, style known as Alberello (little tree), to prevent damage that would result with the off the ground training methods found in other regions. The cuisine is decidedly more focused on game and foods that could be cultivated on land rather than the sea. Despite having the most coast shores of all, Sardinians historically have kept their distance from the sea-fear of malaria along with superstitions being the primary cause.
And while Sicily has had dramatic developments with intense investment contributing to its rise in quality, Sardinia has seen a more subtle evolution. In part, this is due to the minor role wine has in the local economy. Sardinian wine accounts for just 2% of all Italian wine produced (Statistics vary but the split is fairly even between red and white). Interestingly, the result is that cooperatives like Santadi have been behind the drive for quality, with the assistance of renowned winemaker Giacomo Tacchis. Another contradiction to note is, while relatively little wine is produced in Sardinia, cork is a major industry of the island.

Santadi

There are two sides to Sardinia: the VIP sea resorts everybody knows, thick with Italy’s élite; and the Sardinia of Sardinians, an ancient civilization of farmers, fishermen and growers. The latter are grass-roots people, at home in Italy’s most unspoilt natural scenery; proud people in the best sense of the word, with a gut feeling for their heritage and terroir – add to that their proverbial tenacity, and you have the ideal character description for a quality winemaker.
The Piedmontese-born oenologist Giacomo Tachis, of Sassicaia fame, has long been a believer in the emerald island’s enormous potential. More than that: he is personally involved in the Sardinian quality revolution. To this day, he tirelessly consults for his friend Antonello Pilloni, President of one of the finest wineries not merely of Sardinia but Italy: SANTADI.
Founded in 1960 and located on the southwestern coastal area known as Sulcis, the winery’s track record of close to 50 years has confirmed it as a Mediterranean star of rare brilliance.
Santadi now counts an impressive 1,235 acres (500 hectares) of prime, gently rolling land reaching right out to the sea (cf. photo below). This terrain is truly unique: here, pre-Phylloxera rootstock survives thanks to the sandy nature of the soil. Raffaele Cani, simpaticissimo general manager, explains: “The parasite does attack the roots, producing small holes in them. These cavities, however, are immediately filled up by grains of sand that heal the wounds, as it were, allowing the plant to thrive in spite of Phylloxera.”
The extraordinary terroir is of course nurtured by very severe quality criteria and a team of professionals comprising Tachis-educated oenologist Davide Pera.

“Vanilla and mie de pain on the nose; tasty on the palate.”

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