Wine: Marcarini: Barolo “Brunate” DOCG

Piedmont

Located in the most northwestern area of Italy, Piedmont is bordered by Switzerland and France with the Alps and Maritime Alps surrounding two-thirds of the region. The seasons are some of the most extreme with abundant, winter snows and hot, arid summers. While ranked 7th in overall wine production, Piedmont boasts as the number one area for officially classified DOC-DOCG wines in Italy. There are no wines produced that have been designated IGT.
The most, noble vine is Nebbiolo from which the famous wines Barolo and Barbaresco are made-respectively producing 6 million and 2.5 million bottles each year, the quantities being small relative to many new world producers. Barolo has 3100 acres planted to vine in 11 communes. Barbaresco has just 1200 acres devoted to vine producing wine in 4 communes. Each commune has important cru vineyards reflecting the emphasis that Barolo and Barbaresco place on terroir. The key Cru sites of Barolo are within La Morra, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba and Monforte d Alba. The major crus of Barbaresco are found in Barbaresco, Neive and Tresio. Tradition and superior craftsmanship have always been important facets of production, but in recent years the introduction of new technologies and techniques have elevated the quality and stature of these wines even further.
While Barolo and Barbaresco are the most noted wines, the fabulous Langhe blends, well known within the region, are growing in recognition outside of Italy . Often combining native grapes (sometimes with Cabernet and/or Merlot), these structured wines provide wonderful alternatives for earlier consumption.  There are also numerous wines produced from native grapes that are rising stars in their own right. Not only beautifully made, they are less expensive values for everyday consumption. Barbera and Dolcetto are examples finding increasing popularity in the U.S.  Finally, with the Asti DOCG being 2nd only to the Chianti appellation in terms of production, one must not overlook the Moscato d Asti—a lightly, frizzante, sparkler, it is not only a desert wine but can be enjoyed on its own or to begin a meal. 

Marcarini

Marcarini is at its fifth generation and busily preparing the sixth: three little ones who will surely fall in love with fine winemaking just as soon as they’re done with Lego and Barbie. Their task-juggling parents, Luisa & Manuel Marchetti, have been in charge of Luisa’s family winery since 1990, with Manuel responsible for sales & promotions, Luisa orchestrating the wines with consultant oenologist Armando Cordero.
Founded by Luisa’s great-great-great-grandfather, the estate was the very first in the area to designate single vineyards on its labels (as early as the 1950s!). In fact, one of Marcarini’s superb, historical crus is 150-year-old Boschi di Berri, whose Dolcetto vines are the oldest in Italy — the only ones to have survived phylloxera and maintained indigenous rootstock.
The Marchettis’ varietal map (with the sole exception of Shiraz) is almost exclusively native: grape types born and bred in this breathtaking sea of vine-veined hills called Langhe. The Nebbiolo grapes for Barolo are grown within the estate’s original nucleus, high on the rolling terroir of La Morra: two celebrated, contiguous crus, Brunate and La Serra, close to the Marcarini home and winery.
The building itself — adjoining a medieval tower — goes back to the 1700s: the cool, ancient underground cellars and their protective shade provide an ideal ambience for the King of Wines’ classic élevage. Classic, in fact, is a key word in the Marcarini philosophy, ideally poised between traditional and modern: the wines are characterized by both a voluptuous, embracing style (even the young Barolo is seductive, surprisingly drinkable in its earliest days), and the superb longevity and blockbuster structure of Piedmont’s best. Full respect for their noble heritage goes hand in hand with respect for the soil. The exceptional vineyards — all estate-owned — are the true heart of the winery. Their names alone speak volumes: “Brunate” and “La Serra” at La Morra; “Sargentin” at Neviglie, quintessence of Moscato country; “Muschiavino” and a second “La Serra” vineyard at Montaldo Roero. The superb locations, steepness of the slopes and nature of the terrain, exposure to the sunlight, exceptional microclimate, are not only conducive to top wines, but to non-aggressive, natural vineyard management. The vineyards themselves cover 42 acres of the estate’s total 62 (i.e. 17 and 25 hectares respectively).

The Brunate cru, in the communes of La Morra and Barolo, is one of the most famous in the Barolo region and expresses the elegance of La Morra to perfection. This austere, majestic wine is a single-vineyard. In fact, Marcarini’s Brunate was the very first in the area to specify its vineyard name on the actual labels, as early as 1958.

Vines (planted in 1980/1986) are Guyot-trained at a density of 4,000 per hectare (approximately 1,600 per acre), an altitude of around 300 meters above sea level, and south/southwestern exposure. Terrain is calcareous, clayey, characterized by a high concentration of magnesium, and now covers 4.5 hectares (approximately 11 acres).

The grapes are severely selected (the wine’s ideal balance of acidity and tannins is a precise indication of perfectly ripened fruit), then fermented at a temperature of 28-30° Celsius. Maceration on the skins lasts 3 to 4 weeks, and the wine is aged for at least two years in medium-sized oak barrels (between 2,000 and 4,000 liters in capacity).

It is successively bottled (in the classic bottle format of the Alba appellation, Albeisa) and stored horizontally, in an area especially set aside for it in the most ancient section of the cellars.

As in the case of La Serra, the wine is aged 2 years in 20/40-hl. barrels of Slavonian oak previous to 1 year’s bottle age. Austere and imposing, a virile example displaying characteristic power and strength. Its classic style excites the nose with marvellous spice, tobacco, cinnamon, ripe fruit, tar and dry rose scents, with undertones of very fine wood. Color is garnet red, lively and intense, with slightly orange hues, but it is on the palate this wine fully reveals its magnitude, character and complexity: velvety, round, with soft tannins, well balanced components and remarkable persistence, it confirms the bouquet’s subtly spicy vein, with notes of licorice and vanilla.

2003 Barolo Brunate, 90 points - Wine Advocate (Issue #173)

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