Wine: Cocci Grifoni: Rosso Piceno Superiore “Le Torri” DOC

Marche

A gentle hilly region bordered on the west by the Apennines and to the east by the Adriatic, the Marche is well known for its olives, olive oils, cheeses, and seafood-especially seafood dishes like Brodetto (Fish Soup). The climate is mild, sunny, with sea breezes and dry conditions that are ideal for viticulture. The classic wine of the region is made from the native grape Verdicchio known for its lemon acidity and hints of almond. It is not certain when wine production was established, although it can easily be traced back to the Romans and Greeks. Long associated with being an inexpensive wine found in a green amphora bottle with a scroll around the neck, the natural advantages of the area have often promoted mass production. The green fish bottle became the perfect accompaniment to the straw-flasked wines of Chianti and defined a generation of buyers around the world. (The fish bottle thought to have been inspired by similarly shaped containers used by Greek sailors.)
Fortunately, recent improvements in quality by several small producers have elevated Verdicchio into one of Italy’s premier white wines-particularly those from the DOC zones of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica. Notable for drinking in their youth, many Verdicchios are also worthy of aging much like Burgundy. And even better, they are wonderful bargains in comparison to other more famous wines of the same caliber. It should be noted that Verdicchio has been genetically linked to the Trebbiano of Lugana in Lombardy and Soave in Veneto—wines which have also seen marked improvement in quality. It seems no coincidence that all have the capacity for producing superlative wines. While much of the Marche production is devoted to white wine in the northern area of the region-62% of total production is white-there has been a significant development with the red wines of Rosso Conero in the north and Rosso Piceno in the south. Both wines traditionally use a blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese that many small producers have shown can achieve superb quality. Styles can vary from elegant, easy going to extracted, structured and complex with the amount of Montepulciano being the decisive factor. These are wines that have just begun to achieve recognition outside of Italy and will easily win over fans for their
range of superb value.

Cocci Grifoni

The Marche region is one of Italy’s best kept secrets. Bucolically peaceful and apparently timeless, its pristine landscape is adorned with medieval walled towns, castles and monasteries. The gently rolling, clayey soil – mostly hilly and mountainous – supplies a small but choice range of DOCs, which include Verdicchio in the central area, Rosso Piceno, Falerio dei Colli Ascolani and the more recent Offida appellation (from the 2001 vintage) in the southeast.
The latter have long featured one leading estate, founded by Guido and Diana Cocci Grifoni in 1970. The property is located in the heart of Rosso Piceno’s Superiore DOC, and comprises the appellation’s finest vineyards, between Offida (hence the new DOC name) and Ripatransone.
In the course of the past year, surface under vine has been increased to 124 acres (50 hectares) of mostly native varieties. The estate itself totals 198 acres, and includes 2,100 olive trees and cereal plantations.
Guido (incidentally, a professional agronomist) and wife Diana are flanked by their daughters, winemaker Paola (with a master’s degree in oenology specializing in marchigiano white varieties) and the ebullient Marilena, sales manager. The Cocci Grifonis’ friendly simplicity and simpatia are liable to make us forget they are actually a very ancient, noble family, deeply rooted in the Marche tradition and terroir. At the same time, they have chosen not to rest on their laurels, recently investing 700,000 Euros into structural renovations in the winery and cellars. These comprise new barrique and tonneaux cellars, new equipment with computerized temperature control, more space, more stainless steel, a state-of-the-art quartz floor etc.
Most recently, the family has not only increased acreage under vine, but restored a farmhouse at San Basso and issued two new wines:
(1) a bollicine version of that native Passerina variety the Cocci Grifonis were instrumental in reviving and enhancing and
(2) Tellus, a red Marche IGT.

From 60-65% Montepulciano and 35-40% Sangiovese, grown on some of the regionís finest hillside terrain. Low crops, severe grape selection and Èlevage in oak barrels for 14-16 months yield a full-bodied red with a complex bouquet of raspberries and red cherries, smooth texture and a delightfully soft finish.

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