Wine: Bongiovanni: Rosso delle Langhe “Faletto” DOC+

Piedmont

Located in the most northwestern area of Italy, Piedmont is bordered by Switzerland and France with the Alps and Maritime Alps surrounding two-thirds of the region. The seasons are some of the most extreme with abundant, winter snows and hot, arid summers. While ranked 7th in overall wine production, Piedmont boasts as the number one area for officially classified DOC-DOCG wines in Italy. There are no wines produced that have been designated IGT.
The most, noble vine is Nebbiolo from which the famous wines Barolo and Barbaresco are made-respectively producing 6 million and 2.5 million bottles each year, the quantities being small relative to many new world producers. Barolo has 3100 acres planted to vine in 11 communes. Barbaresco has just 1200 acres devoted to vine producing wine in 4 communes. Each commune has important cru vineyards reflecting the emphasis that Barolo and Barbaresco place on terroir. The key Cru sites of Barolo are within La Morra, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba and Monforte d Alba. The major crus of Barbaresco are found in Barbaresco, Neive and Tresio. Tradition and superior craftsmanship have always been important facets of production, but in recent years the introduction of new technologies and techniques have elevated the quality and stature of these wines even further.
While Barolo and Barbaresco are the most noted wines, the fabulous Langhe blends, well known within the region, are growing in recognition outside of Italy . Often combining native grapes (sometimes with Cabernet and/or Merlot), these structured wines provide wonderful alternatives for earlier consumption.  There are also numerous wines produced from native grapes that are rising stars in their own right. Not only beautifully made, they are less expensive values for everyday consumption. Barbera and Dolcetto are examples finding increasing popularity in the U.S.  Finally, with the Asti DOCG being 2nd only to the Chianti appellation in terms of production, one must not overlook the Moscato d Asti—a lightly, frizzante, sparkler, it is not only a desert wine but can be enjoyed on its own or to begin a meal. 

Cascina Bongiovanni

The full name on the label is Cascina Bongiovanni.  In Italian, the word “cascina” (‘farmstead’; pronounced ka-shee’-nah) has a nice, old-fashioned flavor to it: most of today’s producers prefer grander-sounding, trendier terms to describe themselves.  Cascina makes you think of kindly old grandfathers…  Which is exactly where this winery started, in the early 1950s, when Davide Mozzone’s maternal grandfather, Giovanni Bongiovanni – a grass-roots man with a profound instinct for soil potential – purchased a plot of untamed woodland and planted a Nebbiolo vineyard in its stead.  Giovanni struck gold, yet never got to bottle his own wine. 
The estate was left to his daughter Olga and grew to cover premier hillside vineyards of Langhe varietals and one noble “foreigner,” Cabernet Sauvignon.  The latter – and a good number of other innovations – were due to Olga’s young nephew and winemaker, Davide Mozzone, who has also taken total surface under vine to the present 15.3 acres (6.2 hectares). 
In 2001, Olga officially transferred ownership to her nephew, though
she is still very much present in the winery – contributing to the latter’s home-like, family feel.  Davide is also assisted by a top agronomist, Gian Piero Romana, as attentive to every detail in the vineyard as the young owner himself.  Since Davide’s first vintage, 1993, these hugely concentrated, luscious, muscly and full-bodied reds have reaped unanimous accolades.  Then in 2005 (with the 2004 vintage), Davide released the first white ever to bear a Bongiovanni label:  Arneis.

This is the estate’s only blend – a secret one! – and follows a formula that varies each year, as Davide orchestrates a given vintage’s subtle variations and harmonies. In Davide’s own words, “Varieties and relative percentages vary each year, with the sole purpose of crafting a wine that is as well balanced, appealing and distinctive as possible. I can tell you the blend comprises both native and international grapes.” We set down a working formula of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Barbera, 20% Nebbiolo… However, this is no more than a conventional approximation or educated guess!

2001 Faletto, 4 stars - Restaurant Wine (Issue 101)

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